Celine's Philo makes stylish play on soft geometry

THOMAS ADAMSON AP Fashion Writer Published:

PARIS (AP) -- After last season's slouchy-chic, Celine's Phoebe Philo upped the elegance in fall-winter 2013-14 to deliver a beautiful play of lines, but one that lost none of her soft touch.

For those with a penchant for loose, structured geometry the Paris ready-to-wear show had plenty to offer. That included wide horizontal bands of fabric, streamlined plunging lapels, triangular wide temple guard sleeves, and large angular collars.

Relaxed was the word -- like a series of clever, knee length sleeveless dresses. Technically, they weren't actually sleeveless: faux sleeves were wrapped around the torso, like a belt. The arms were folded in dishabille resignation, as if to say: I know I'm stylish, but I don't need to prove it.

Philo has a quick eye for trends that are always handled in her own distinct way. This season's fashion for blown-up checks, for instance, came as the multicolored canvass on beach mats. And there were some great oversize coats.

The collection shows the influential London designer at the top of her game.

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Thomas Adamson can be followed at http://Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP