Mugler revisits insectoid look for fall-winter

THOMAS ADAMSON Associated Press Published:

PARIS (AP) -- Mugler's Nicola Formichetti took a microscope to the insectoid world for his fall-winter ready-to-wear show, the first from the designer without Lady Gaga for support.

Jutting bony peplums, laser cutting and spiderlike shoulder padding were shown on models who wandered several at a time around an arena catwalk, seemingly at random.

Like other collections this fall, the designer delved back into the house's archives for inspiration, finding Thierry Mugler's "Insect" collection from 1997.

But the graphic angular look was given a Far East revamping with long fox fur and mink kimono sleeves and the proportions of traditional Japanese clothing -- something close to the heart of the Japan-born designer.

Many looks will look great in photos at A-list parties, like a stiff micro dress in black silk gazar with a sheer hood. Another white sheath with rounded shoulders, a leaflike peplum and an impossibly cinched waist turned the model into a severe, hourglass fembot.

Without Lady Gaga in tow this season, the clothes had to speak for themselves. Luckily, they did.